Mango creams: failure, and a really delectable silver lining

Chronicles of mango cream chocolate failure, take two.

So, if you remember, my first attempt at mango cream chocolate didn’t succeed because the frozen mango chunks ended up really lacking in flavor. Which surprised me, but maybe it shouldn’t have, because one thing the mango ice cream recipes all said was that it was essential to use really ripe, flavorful mangoes to get good mango ice cream — unlike, say, passionfruit, where the flavor and tang seem to cut through effectively even with a relatively weak puree.

So for try #2, I went with mango pulp (Kesar was what I had on hand, though I think Roshani prefers a different brand?), which I’ve found reliable for flavor in mango fluff, mango smoothies, mango lassi, etc. So the next problem was consistency — I wanted something that would set up into a firm cream.

On googling, I found some recipes that combined mango with cream cheese, so I tried that first, but putting in enough pulp to get the flavor I wanted resulted in a very liquid-y mixture that would definitely not set firm. I didn’t want to waste it, so I thought I’d try combining that with a sugar paste like the one I’d done for the rose creams — beaten egg whites and powdered sugar. One photo here shows the color — pure mango pulp on the left, my mixture on the right.

Unfortunately, while the resulting mixture was tasty, it still didn’t set firmly enough. As you can see, when you try to slice it, it spurts messily all over the place. Sort of like how a cherry cordial behaves, but even more so. And it tastes good, but the proportions are off — it’s too much chocolate to the amount of mango in the filled chocolate (and I can’t fill it more without it failing to seal).

Plus, the chocolates are too big to easily eat in one bite; you really do need to be able to bite them in half, and then take a second bite. This size mold worked great for the chocolates I filled with the passionfruit / ginger / cashew paste, but it’s just failing for this on all fronts.

All is not lost. The resulting mango cream, when frozen, is delicious enough that I want to just eat it with a spoon. I have a plate full of these chocolates, and my plan is to make another batch of homemade vanilla ice cream, freeze the chocolates and chop them up, and then stir that mixture into the soft-serve vanilla ice cream, along with the rest of the mango filling (which I’ll thaw first, for ease of stirring in).

And then I’ll freeze that all together, and I should have a really delectable vanilla / ruby chocolate / mango ice cream to serve at some special occasion.

Mango creams, though — I’m going to have to experiment a little more. I do really like the fruitiness of the ruby chocolate with the mango, so I want to keep those elements. I see two options:

a) I could buy mango extract and use it with powdered sugar and egg white to make a mango sugar-paste, the way I did with the rose creams, but the reviews of mango extracts on Amazon seem very not promising — if anyone here (Carollina, Pooja, Roshani) has a brand they actually like, I’d love to know. For that approach, I probably wouldn’t use the molds — I’d just dip in melted chocolate, the way I did for the rose creams. That should help with proportions being right.

b) I could experiment further to make a cream that actually sets using mango pulp, to use in molded chocolates. I’m not sure what the right approach would be there, honestly. Gelatin, perhaps? It would help it set, but the consistency might end up more of a mango jelly than a mango cream — maybe that’s fine, though. The goal is just to have something firm that would stand up to biting into.

Chocolates in space

Even though this mango cream chocolate confection didn’t work out (details in next post), I do love this photo. The ruby chocolate took an interesting mottled look in the mold, and the way that contrasts with my now ten-year-old zinc countertop — it’s just cool and vaguely science fiction-y.  When my passions collide…

#chocolatesinspace

Comforting myself

I had a sucky afternoon (I don’t know why, but even though there was minimal pain (two injections), the 6 hours dealing with the bone scan at the hospital really got to me today), and am feeling thoroughly sorry for myself. In rotten mood.

I am going to comfort myself with playing Terraforming Mars while watching Anthony Bourdain on Hulu and possibly posting here off and on, I don’t know. Plus demanding the children and Kevin come snuggle me sometimes and leave me completely alone the rest of the time.

Plus chocolate. ALL the homemade chocolate ice cream I have left, with ruby chocolate and mango filling stirred in. I know this isn’t the most attractive photo. Hush, it’s good.

 

I tried something new last night

So, I tried something new last night — I put my laptop in my office at 9 p.m., and didn’t go to get it until 9 a.m. today. I read for an hour and a half before sleep (in the bath, in bed), and when I woke up this morning, I read some more (along with getting kids off to school, watering plants (picture me watering with book in hand), cleaning kitchen counters, etc. It was lovely.

I’ve been running a little too harried the last few weeks for reading much, and I think it’s a bad cycle to get into, because reading (and I mean reading longer work, fiction and memoir, etc., not just little FB pieces) calms me down and helps me think better.

I still felt the compulsion to check social media, so would jump on phone or iPad on occasion (hence the occasional sharing of things to FB), but I am much less likely to lose lots of time if I don’t have my laptop, mostly because I am too lazy to try to write much without a keyboard.

The downside is that when I do share things, it’s such a pain cutting and pasting quotes that I mostly don’t even try, and ditto even commenting on things I post. I’m going to go back and add a bit now to some of the earlier FB shares.

But still, this is better. I have *thoughts* now about Anthony Bourdain’s writing and Ruth Reichl’s. I like Bourdain’s a lot better, and am trying to parse out why. It’s all good.

More soon. 

The food we ate along the way

A few days ago I was talking with a writer friend about cooking. She wanted to write a cookbook of her family’s recipes, but was frustrated that her mother hadn’t taught her to cook.

My mom actually barely taught me how to cook; she would say “Just watch,” when I asked. She had me chop a lot of onions, and stir a lot of onions, and corrected me as I did that wrong (generally working too hastily, too carelessly).

Amma also told me a handful of recipes (usually without much in the way of measurements), but that was about it, in terms of explicit teaching.

But I ate her food every day for twenty years. More and more, I’m realizing that the real cooking lessons were embedded there. Amma cooks beautifully, deliciously, and as a result of all those meals, my mouth knows how our food is supposed to taste at its best.

Also, sitting around with her and my many aunties after a party, critiquing the dishes, was an education in itself. 

Giveaway for Feast is live!

Woot! Our first GoodReads giveaway for A Feast of Serendib is live! (Over a hundred people have put in a request already, which is very cool.  )

Link to giveaway: https://www.goodreads.com/giveaway/show/303738-a-feast-of-serendib

Finding a balance between cooking and writing

Kevin and I have been talking a lot lately about the best use of my time as a writer / cookbook author, whether it’s worth making and shipping sweets.

I was talking to Chef Roel Estanilla at local Filipino pop-up pig & fire about some of these issues too — he makes these amazing ube cookies, and people have been asking if he’ll ship them. And I know Amanda Daly already has people asking if she’ll ship her delectable bagels (soon to be sold at The Daly Bagel in Oak Park!) But it’s not easy to make the math work out.

For example, hosting a sale like the current Valentine’s sweets sale takes me about, oh, 16 hours of cooking, tracking sales, communicating with people, packing things, actually mailing them.

If I make about $300 profit doing that (after taking out cost of supplies and shipping), that’s about $20 / hr as an hourly rate, which isn’t terrible, but honestly, my writing hourly rate is much higher, generally — somewhere between $50 – $100 / hr.

So holding these sales doesn’t make a lot of sense, money-wise, and of course, one thing we learned from the Kickstarter was that I had *way* too many rewards levels and really underestimated how much time handmade rewards took to make. Slow-roasting and grinding and packaging curry powder takes significant time! We’re pretty committed to not doing that kind of Kickstarter again, now that we have a better understanding of just how much time goes into it — it kind of ate my fall.

But when we were talking about all this yesterday, Kev pointed out that even if it doesn’t make a lot of money, hourly rate-wise, if I actually *enjoy* the cooking experiments and coming up with new recipes and having a quiet Saturday in the kitchen, puttering, that’s worth something too. It’s certainly nice to have something productive to do that doesn’t require staring at a computer screen, as so much of my work does, so the variation is worth something, even if it’s less profitable overall. (The kids like helping sometimes, and consuming the sweet experiments…)

And then I pointed out that it’s also good advertising, of course — posting about the sale gives me a reason to talk about the cookbook again. Any author can tell you that part of the reason there’s so much emphasis on book launch is that after that, it’s much harder to come up with good reasons to talk about your book. “It’s new!” is worth shouting about. “It’s been out a month!” is much less so.

So we have a very tentative plan to keep doing these sales, off and on. Only when I’m not feeling super-pressed for time, probably no more than once a month. Maybe less often this year, once the book tour details get finalized, since for at least some of those events, I’ll be making sweets and such to serve at book tour parties.

I would actually *love* to have some of my sweets out in the world more broadly, and there’s a little dream where I find someone to partner with who actually wants to take my recipes and make them in a more serious production-oriented way as part of a small business. It’d be awesome to sell them in local shops like the Happy Apple Pie ShopSugar Beet Food Co-opCarnivore Oak ParkWise Cup, etc.

The same thing with the curry powder, actually — wouldn’t it be awesome to have the curry powder (and sweets) available in Whole Foods? I’m picturing a Serendib Kitchen line, with pretty packaging and all.

(Oh, dreams of world food domination. You tempt me.)

But that’s definitely a more serious production than I have time for this year, and possibly ever — I’d really need someone else who wanted to do it, someone who was both a good cook and with good business skills, who could be my partner on that. I guess this post is both a warning that I won’t be doing these sales very often, and a little bit of an invitation too — if that business partner is maybe you, we should talk. 🙂

Sharing my happiness with the world

Two things that just make me happy:

– shipping out a new copy of Bodies in Motion, a book I published in 2005 — 15 years later, this book still has some legs.  I spent four years working hard on it, so it’s very pleasing to know that new readers are still discovering and hopefully enjoying it…

– the adorable little handmade label I got to stick on this package of assorted confections. A set of six of them came along with some glass spice jars I ordered, so I’ve just been randomly adding them to some of the packages I sent out this weekend. Small cutenesses that have no real purpose in the world but to make people smile…

(Sweets: “I Plight Thee My Troth” marshmallows (passionfruit, rose, and vanilla), “Starry Nights in Serendib” marshmallows (tamarind & chili), rose creams, and dark chili chocolates.)

Failed experiment: mango ruby chocolate ganache

Sigh — sometimes cooking experiments just fail, and it’s very sad. I HATE throwing food out, and usually I can salvage it *somehow*, but this just didn’t work.

I was aiming for a mango cream ganache — mangoes and cream and chocolate, as a filling for molded chocolates. But the mangoes & cream combined with the ruby chocolate (which I used for its fruity notes) to create an unappetizing brown, and even adding food coloring didn’t get it to a mango-ish color I was happy with. That wasn’t the real problem, though.

It didn’t *taste* like mango. I’d used frozen mango chunks, because y’know, this is the Midwest and it’s winter. Fresh, ripe mango is not easy to find here right now. And the result was just watery and lacking mango flavor and honestly, sad. I added some lemon zest, which helped perk it up a bit, but that made it even less mango-ish.

If I’d kept going, I would have produced the saddest mango creams ever. I’d have to name the recipe Mango Creams of the Miserable Homesick Diaspora.

I sighed, and poured it all down the sink.

I’m going to take another approach entirely — the delectable rose creams were made with a sugar paste of egg whites and powdered sugar and rose essence, so I’m going to try that, but with plenty of nice dried mango chopped up and stirred into the sugar paste.

That should be reliably tasty, fingers crossed, and as a bonus, will be more shelf stable than the cream-based version. (Though my chocolates should generally be eaten within 2-3 weeks regardless.)

Will report back on how the next batch goes — I have to swing by Pete’s first, get some spices for curry powder roasting, and look for their best dried mango.

I’ll try the ganache again at some point, but when I do, I’m going to use canned mango pulp — that works well for puddings and such, so I suspect it’ll be a better option. I may try blending with cream cheese instead of attempting the heated heavy cream + melted chocolate filling; that seems less liable to go wrong.

Probably too disheartened to risk it right now, though, esp. since I promised to get these chocolates out the door in time for Valentine’s Day.

Starry Nights in Serendib: Tamarind-Chili Marshmallows

I think I’ve decided when I’m really pleased with a recipe, that’s when it deserves to get its own name. I tried adding another 1/2 c. of tamarind puree to my marshmallow recipe, and it’s just perfect now — that’s what it needed to get the fluffy height and soft pillowy goodness that you want in a marshmallow. I swapped out the corn syrup for honey too, and that gives a more complex, interesting flavor to play with the tamarind. Perfect. Done.

*****

Starry Nights in Serendib:
Tamarind-Chili Marshmallows, dipped in Dark Chocolate

1 c. tamarind puree
1/2 t. raw red chili powder or cayenne
3 packages unflavored gelatin
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
powdered (confectioner’s) sugar
butter (for greasing the pan)
14 oz. bittersweet chocolate chips
edible gold stars and crushed red pepper for decorating

1. Combine tamarind puree with chili powder. Empty gelatin packets into bowl of stand mixer (whisk attachment), with tamarind-chili puree. Stir briefly to combine.

2. In a small saucepan (a bigger one will be heavy and hard to hold steadily at a later stage) combine water, granulated sugar, honey, and salt. Cover and cook over medium high heat for 4 minutes. Uncover and cook until the mixture reaches soft ball stage (240 degrees if you have a candy thermometer), approximately 8 minutes. Once the mixture reaches this temperature, immediately remove from heat; if it continues, it will swiftly turn into hard candy.

3. Turn mixer on low speed and, while running, slowly pour the sugar syrup down the side of the bowl into the gelatin mixture. (Be very careful with the sugar syrup, as it is scaldingly hot and will burn you badly if it gets on your skin.) Once you’ve added all of the syrup, increase the speed to high.

4. Continue to whip until the mixture becomes very thick and is lukewarm, approximately 12 minutes.

5. While it’s whipping, butter a large 9 x 12 pan and dust with powdered sugar. Prepare an oiled spatula.

6. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly (and swiftly) with an oiled spatula.

7. Dust the top with enough of the remaining powdered sugar to lightly cover. Reserve the rest for later. Allow the marshmallows to sit uncovered for at least 4 hours and up to overnight.

8. Turn onto a board, cut into squares and dust all sides of each marshmallow with the remaining powdered sugar, using additional if necessary. May be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 weeks, or frozen.

9. If dipping, melt chocolate (either in microwave on 50% power, stirring every 30 seconds, or over double boiler), stir until smooth. Dip each marshmallow and let dry on waxed paper. Immediately sprinkle after dipping (you can dip the whole set first) with a sprinkle of cayenne and edible stars.

*****